Samenvatting

This thesis is written on behalf of AFRIEK. AFRIEK is a fashion brand based in Rwanda which has the vision to show the power of cross-cultural collaboration based on equality. AFRIEK became much more of a research project than only a commercial brand: trying to be as sustainable as possible while keeping the brand aesthetics alive. The printing process and dyes used were still toxic and it seemed hard to find an alternative in a short time. This study addresses the next step for AFRIEK to create prints made from local and natural dyes. Natural dyes are important as chemicals used in printing are polluting the environment and compromising the health of the workers in the factories. Therefore, the following research question has been formulated: What are the possibilities for AFRIEK to create a printing paste made from natural dyes in conjunction with an implementable new printing technique as a sustainable initiative of the local production in Rwanda?
The research consisted out of a combination between theoretical yet practical work. First, the workability of natural dyes and each component needed in this process was extensively researched. Several printing techniques and methods were examined and compared. Ultimately, keeping in mind the core values and requirements set by AFRIEK. Pilot samples were made according to literature and expert interviews and were tested according to the ISO 105 Textiles Test for Colour Fastness. Hereby, the challenges were that endless possibilities with natural dyes can be made, and the samples could only be made in a limited time frame. However, the lab tests in combination with obtained information gave a proper insight into what is already possible and what should be changed in further research. Moreover, research was done into what is available in Rwanda in terms of printing (with natural dyes) that could contribute to this research project. The reliability of this research is increased by using various methods such as literature research, interviews and two types of experimental work.
There is a possibility for AFRIEK to set up a new printing technique as a sustainable initiative of the local production in Rwanda. A print can be created according to the mordant printing method by making a printing paste with a combination of iron sulphate and a cassava thickener. A proper pre-treatment of scouring and mordanting is needed in order to achieve the required colour fastness properties. A print design can be created through cross-cultural collaboration in working together with an Rwandan artist. The company T-Kay investment based in Kigali, can offer screens in any design and size required. The screen printing technique is recommended since it is production oriented and can guarantee high-quality prints. After printing, the fabric can be dyed at Handspun Hope, a natural dyeing organization based in Musanze, Rwanda. When the mordants that are printed on the textile come in touch with the dye bath, it will fixate to fibre and creates coloured areas. Research has shown that this is the most reliable and feasible way to create prints on a cotton fabric in Rwanda.
Specific process steps of how the samples are made with all ingredients used has been drawn up. Based on the conclusion, an overview has been made what is needed during implementing this technique, from materials, knowledge to potential partners. For further research, every process step should be replicated and tested according to the recommendations given at the end of the report. The reality of this research should be tested on the ground of Rwanda.